New Kitten Checklist, What to Buy Before Your Cat Comes Home

A new kitten or cat checklist covers what your cat needs to eat, drink, use the litter box, rest, scratch, play and travel safely. Before pickup, get a carrier, familiar food, bowls, a litter box with litter, a sturdy scratching post, a hiding spot and a few simple toys. Don’t stock up right away or buy a whole catalog of accessories. You’ll only learn what your cat prefers after they move in.

The best starter list comes from what you know about this particular animal. Ask the current caregiver which food and litter your cat knows, which litter box they use, what they like to play with and whether you’ll get their blanket, documents or some of their gear. That way, on day one you won’t change their home, food, litter and daily routine all at once.

What to buy for a new kitten before pickup

Before your cat arrives, you only need the things used on the way and in the first few hours at home. An extra scratching post, a fountain, a bigger cat tree or more toys can come later. Splitting it up this way cuts down on wasted purchases and shows you what your cat actually uses.

Set up a quiet home base for your cat

For the first few days, set aside a quiet room or part of your home. It should have a hiding spot, a bed, a litter box, food, water, a scratching post and toys. Don’t put everything in one spot. Guidelines from the Feline Veterinary Medical Association recommend separating food, water, the litter box, rest, scratching and play so your cat can use these resources without stress.

The base can be a small room with windows and doors that close. A cardboard box turned on its side often works better as a first hiding spot than an expensive bed. Don’t pull your cat out of the carrier or out of hiding. Open the carrier in the prepared spot and give them time to come out on their own.

Litter box and litter for a cat or kitten

To start, choose a simple litter box your cat can easily get into, turn around in and dig. International Cat Care gives a practical guideline: a box about one and a half times your cat’s length, measured from nose to the base of the tail. A small kitten may need a lower entry, even if they’ll move to a bigger model later.

At first, use the litter your cat knows from the breeder, foster home or shelter. According to International Cat Care, a layer of about 3 cm lets a kitten dig. Scented litter, sharp granules, plastic liners and automatic litter boxes can put your cat off or stress them, so they’re not a good first experiment.

• For one cat, set up at least one easy-to-reach litter box. If your home has several floors or your cat has limited mobility, a second one can shorten the trip to the litter box.
• With several cats, spread out the resources. Cats Protection recommends one litter box per cat plus one extra, placed in different spots.
• Clean regularly. Keep the scoop and a lidded container or bags out of your cat’s reach but close to where you clean.
• Don’t change several things at once. If you want to switch the litter box or the litter, it’s easier to see how your cat reacts when the other one stays familiar.

Food, bowls and water for the first days

Buy a small bag of the food your cat has been eating. Moving to a new home is a big change on its own, so day one isn’t the time to test several new flavors and ways of feeding. If you want to switch products later, do it gradually and watch their appetite and bowel movements. If your cat has an illness or allergy, is underweight or is on a diet prescribed by a vet, the vet’s individual plan comes first.

Check the label to see whether the food is complete and balanced and made for the right life stage. A kitten needs food made for growth, and supplemental food doesn’t replace a complete meal. Don’t stock up before you’ve confirmed your cat eats the food and tolerates it well.

Get separate bowls for food and water. They should be stable, easy to wash and wide enough for your cat to use comfortably. A fountain is an extra, not a requirement for a good start. First see whether your cat drinks from a bowl and where they like to do it.

A carrier for pickup and vet visits

The carrier needs to be ready before pickup. Choose a sturdy, ventilated model with a secure latch. A top opening or a removable top can make it easier to get a stressed cat out, but durability, the right size and easy cleaning matter most.

Line the bottom with an absorbent pad and put a familiar towel or blanket on top. Secure the carrier in the car the way its design allows. Don’t transport your cat loose or in your arms. Once you’re home, don’t put the carrier away in the basement. Leave it open in a quiet spot so it can become a familiar hiding place instead of a signal that a vet visit is coming.

Scratching post, hiding spot and climbing space

Scratching is normal cat behavior. The first scratching post should be sturdy and placed where your cat actually spends time, not in the farthest corner of your home. A vertical post must let your cat stretch out fully. If your cat goes for the rug or other horizontal surfaces, add a flat mat instead of punishing them for scratching in a different direction.

For rest, set up at least one hiding spot and a safe lookout point. You don’t need to buy a tall cat tree right away. A cardboard box, a shelf and an easy-to-wash blanket let you see whether your cat prefers sleeping up high, in a sheltered spot or close to people. Choose permanent gear based on these habits and your cat’s mobility.

Toys and grooming without buying too much

To start, two or three safe toys with different uses are enough: a wand toy for playing together, a light ball or toy mouse to chase and a simple toy for solo play. The Feline Veterinary Medical Association recommends play that mimics hunting and letting your cat catch the toy from time to time. Don’t use your hands or feet as prey.

• Check the toys for wear. Remove loose strings, torn-off feathers, cracked parts and anything that could be swallowed.
• Put wand toys away after play. A long string left unsupervised can get wrapped around your cat’s body.
• Pick a brush to suit their coat. A shorthaired cat may need a different tool and brushing schedule than a longhaired cat.
• Only buy nail clippers once you know how to use them. Ask a vet or an experienced owner to show you a safe technique.

How to cat-proof your home before your cat arrives

A kitten can get behind an appliance, chew through a cable and swallow something that looks harmless. Look around your home from floor level. Block gaps behind furniture and appliances, and put away rubber bands, thread, needles, batteries and small parts. Keep the washer, dryer and cabinets closed, and check inside an appliance before you turn it on.

If you suspect your cat has swallowed a plant, medication, chemical or foreign object, contact a vet right away. Don’t induce vomiting unless the vet tells you to. Bring the packaging, the label or a photo of the substance your cat may have come into contact with.

Documents, microchip and the first vet checkup

Get the adoption or purchase contract, the health record or pet passport, the microchip number, vaccination and deworming dates, test results and details of any medications. Write down the food brand, daily portion, type of litter and your cat’s usual daily routine. This information is part of your checklist, even though it doesn’t go in a shopping cart.

Agree with the person handing over the cat on when the next vet visit should be. If the records are incomplete, your cat shows signs of illness or you’re taking in a found cat, contact a vet clinic sooner. The vet will check your cat’s health and microchip and set up vaccinations, parasite prevention, feeding and any tests. Don’t buy medications, supplements or flea and tick treatments based on a generic list.

Checklist for a kitten, an adult cat and multiple cats

The core of the checklist stays the same, but the size and placement of gear depend on age, mobility and the number of animals. A kitten needs an easier way into the litter box and gaps blocked more carefully. An older cat may need lower sides, shorter routes and resting spots that don’t require jumping.

What not to stock up on

Most money gets wasted on things bought before you know what your cat likes. Your first cart should be enough to start caring for your cat safely, not to furnish your whole home for years.

• A large bag of new food. Your cat may not eat it, may not tolerate it well or may need a different product after a vet visit.
• Lots of bags of new litter. First check whether your cat accepts the litter and the box.
• An automatic litter box. Noise, movement and an enclosed design can be one more change for a new cat.
• An expensive bed. Your cat may pick a cardboard box, a blanket, a shelf or a chair. Choose a permanent resting spot after watching them.
• A big set of toys. Buy a few types and see whether your cat prefers chasing, catching, batting or foraging for food.
• Calming products, supplements and medications. They’re not part of a standard checklist. Decide on them with a vet.
• A harness without measuring. One that’s too loose won’t keep your cat secure, and one that’s too tight restricts movement. Introduce it gradually, not on pickup day.

A simple plan for your first days with a new cat